Summary: If you’re seeking a peaceful and nostalgic way to travel the East Coast, especially in the quieter months, consider the Cape May–Lewes Ferry. During the years I lived in Annapolis, Maryland, this ferry became one of my favorite routes when heading north. Whether you drive on or walk aboard, it offers a relaxing, scenic break from the highway grind. With vintage charm, views of the Delaware Bay, and even dolphin sightings, the ferry feels like a hidden gem in modern travel. In this post, I’m sharing my personal experience of winter crossings, why I love this route, and how it offers a great chance to slow down, unplug, and enjoy the ride.
One of the simple joys I discovered while living in Annapolis, Maryland, was the peaceful, almost old-fashioned charm of taking the Cape May–Lewes Ferry. Nestled in the quiet months of winter, when most people are rushing by highway or hunkering down indoors, this ferry became one of my favorite ways to slow down, breathe, and enjoy the in-between moments of a trip.
If you’re traveling north toward Cape May, New Jersey, especially from the mid-Atlantic region, the ferry is such a convenient and relaxing alternative to sitting in traffic. I used to drive from Annapolis to Lewes, Delaware, a trip that takes you through small towns and past empty winter fields. Once in Lewes, I’d board the ferry and let it carry me across the Delaware Bay to the colorful charm of Cape May.
The ferry has been operating since 1964, and stepping into the terminal feels like stepping back in time. The check-in desk has a nostalgic quality, like something from a mid-century train station. You can tell not much has changed in decades—and I mean that in the best way possible. There’s a comfort in its familiarity, a sense of place that so many modern transportation hubs seem to lack.
Whether you’re driving on with your car or walking on foot, there’s an easy rhythm to the boarding process. I’ve done both options, and each has its perks. If you drive on, just be sure to arrive at least 45 minutes early to get checked in and lined up in your vehicle. Walking on gives you more freedom to roam and really embrace the journey—you’re just a person, a tote bag, and the open water.
One of my favorite parts of the terminal is the little pamphlet display near the waiting area. It’s stuffed with brochures for local attractions, historical sites, lighthouse tours, nature preserves, and dining spots. I always find myself drawn to them, even when I’ve picked up the same ones before. There’s something hopeful and exciting about flipping through possibilities while sipping a coffee and watching the wind whip across the bay.
The Lewes terminal itself has a cozy, understated charm. There are vending machines, a few local souvenirs, and plenty of seating. In the winter, it’s often quiet—just a handful of other travelers, most of us bundled in scarves and coats, content to wait in companionable silence or quiet conversation.
Onboard, the ferry is surprisingly spacious and peaceful. There are multiple seating areas—some with wide windows that frame the shoreline, others more tucked away and quiet. There’s a snack bar with coffee, soft drinks, and casual bites like chips and pretzels, which is all you really need for the 85-minute crossing. I usually settle into a quiet spot with my crochet hook or Bible in hand, grateful for a moment to unplug. In a world full of screens and constant motion, it feels refreshing to simply sit, stitch, and let the water carry me.
Sometimes I like to step outside to the upper deck, even when it’s cold. The brisk air, the sound of the waves slapping against the hull, the distant cry of gulls—it’s all very calming. On one trip, I was lucky enough to see dolphins playing just off the side of the boat. They leapt through the surf, and everyone nearby paused to watch. It was a surprising and joyful moment.
There’s something special about traveling this way in winter. Summer crossings have their own energy—families in flip flops, bustling crowds—but winter brings solitude and stillness. It’s a chance to enjoy the rhythm of the water, the comfort of a warm drink, and a break from the usual pace of things. For me, it became a peaceful pocket of time, especially during longer road trips.
Cape May itself is such a gem of a town. Even in the off-season, when the boardwalk is quiet and many shops operate on reduced hours, the Victorian homes and cozy inns give it an enduring storybook charm. It’s the kind of place where you want to linger—wander down the side streets, pop into a local café, or browse an antique shop. Taking the ferry feels like the perfect prelude to that experience. You arrive not frazzled and rushed, but relaxed and ready to explore.
There’s a lot to love in Cape May year-round: the historic lighthouse, the charming bed and breakfasts, the lovely little boutiques that carry everything from handmade soaps to vintage finds. But in winter, the crowds thin, the pace slows, and the town reveals a quieter side. It’s an ideal destination for anyone who enjoys walking tours, peaceful mornings, and slow travel.
For those planning a longer road trip, the ferry is also a great way to break up the drive. Instead of powering through in one long stretch, it gives you a natural intermission—a chance to stretch, get some fresh air, and reset. I’ve used it that way more than once, especially during colder months when the days are short and the drive can feel long.
Travel doesn’t always have to be fast or packed with activity. Some of my favorite moments have come from the in-between parts of the journey—the time between destinations. On the ferry, I can read without interruption, work on a crochet project without rushing, or just look out the window and enjoy the view. It feels good to be present, especially when you’re surrounded by open water and simple comforts.
If you’re the kind of traveler who likes to unplug for a bit, I recommend bringing something calming—like a book, a journal, or something creative to work on. It turns the ferry ride into time well spent, not just a way to get from point A to point B. For me, it’s become part of the travel experience itself, not just a means of transportation.
So if you ever find yourself planning a trip to Cape May from the south, skip the highway tangle and head to Lewes instead. Let the ferry do the driving for a bit. Watch the seagulls wheel overhead, take in the scent of the salt air, sip something warm, and enjoy the journey. Who knows—maybe you’ll spot dolphins, too.
